Riding the ALCAN on a Harley

Ride the Alaska Highway on a Harley-Davidson

I get a lot of questions about riding a motorcycle to Alaska. I hope you find my articles and Riding Logs interesting.

ALCAN is made for a Harley Roadster

Adventure bike or roadster? Which is better for riding the Alaska Highway?

Riding Log 2022: Denver CO – Whitehorse YT – Denver CO

Riding the ALCAN solo on a Harley from Denver to Whitehorse via the eastern route

Riding Log 2017: Denver CO – Homer AK – Vancouver BC – Crater Lake OR

Riding the ALCAN two-up on a Harley: outbound eastern route; return western route

Riding Log 2019: Denver CO – Seattle WA – Bellingham WA – Ferry to Whittier AK – Homer AK – Anchorage AK – Wasilla AK – Denali AK – Fairbanks AK – Whitehorse YT- Denver CO

Riding solo to Seattle, two-up to Bellingham, ferry to Alaska, fishing in Homer, puppies in Wasilla, solo on the ALCAN from Fairbanks to Denver via eastern route.

Hauling Heavy Loads on a Harley

For those of you who have read A Perfect Finish, I’m not referring to a trailer full of shoes. The heaviest loads I’ve ever hauled were taking those two little thirteen-year-old tykes to Alaska on a motorcycle. M wasn’t quite as heavy, because by picking her up in Seattle, taking her on the ferry, and sending her home to her mother like a parcel from Fairbanks, we turned the journey into a series of daytrips. Riding roundtrip with N on the Alaska Highway? Now that was heavy. And nothing can slow you down more than a really heavy load. Those who have ridden two-up for long distances understand what I mean.

The trip with N was preceded by serious discussions with Hanna about the risks. Can I recommend taking a tyke or any other passenger on the trip? It’s a really big decision, and no, I cannot recommend it. What’s your riding level and experience?

I’ve been riding since I was eight. Even so, I’ve never been on a long trip that I haven’t tested fate at least once. With N, we were almost tossed by a frost heave near the spot where Alamea met her fate. We were almost crushed by a senior driver in an old pickup truck who took our lane while riding through Seattle on Interstate 5. With M, we were almost gusted off Interstate 80 coming around a curve in the Utah mountains. Some other close calls are mentioned in the Riding Logs. Anyway, when riding two-up, nothing about the chapter, The Fatalist, applies. On those trips with the tykes, I never rode slower, squeezed the grips tighter, or rode with such constant paranoia. And the bike never felt lighter than when those little tykes stepped off.

Upgrade & Compromise

Part of keeping the kids sweet on the trips is that, as matter of policy, we always stayed in the nicest hotel we could find, regardless of place. Now, on the ALCAN, don’t imagine that you’re not going to be staying in a lot of fleabags, because sometimes that’s all there is, but in Seattle and Calgary there are nice hotels. I presented activities and sites continuously, and I always let the children choose. In terms of restaurants, same deal–they always chose the place. Of course, these policies came at great costs, but with taking the children on a motorcycle trip, you really have to think of it as a once-in-a-lifetime experience (and that’s something I never say). If you like a place, you’ll return, but don’t imagine you’ll ever return again with your sweet little tyke. Quoting Steve, “No man steps in the same river twice, especially not with different passengers.”

Timing is Critical

When the kids were really little, they begged for motorcycle rides all the time. I would take them around the neighborhoods when they were in grade school, but as long as their legs were too short to place their feet squarely on the running boards, all they could do was hold on tight to their papa. Now neither of them would be caught dead riding on the back of a motorcycle on Colfax with their father.

N was just about to turn thirteen. I had decided to go fishing in Homer and I invited him along. I was amazed when he agreed to go with me on the motorcycle. I was flattered upon our return when M begged to copy his trip (she is two years younger, so she had to wait). Now N is eighteen and M is sixteen. [For those of you who have read A Perfect Finish, does any of this sound familiar?] Today, there is no way either would agree to be held hostage on a motorcycle for weeks. It’s a big tradeoff for them in terms of birthday parties missed, activities with their friends, and lost internet time, because for most of the miles on the ALCAN, cell reception is spotty and the crappy little hotels along the way sell data like it’s silver. Also, for those who ride, you understand: taking six-foot-one N as a passenger now that he has outgrown me would not be easy or fun. If you’re going to take them, you can’t wait until later–later will never come. I highly recommend not taking them, but if you decide to, thirteen may be the optimal age.

Don’t Orphan the Children

Before the children were born, Hanna and I rode two-up all the time. Once we got kids, we decided to quit, because we couldn’t risk orphaning the children. Now that our youngest is sixteen, we’ve begun doing local trips. To Oklahoma for N’s rugby tournament, I rode there and Hanna flew in and out of Oklahoma City. On my latest trip riding north up the Pacific Coast Highway, I picked up Hanna at the San Francisco airport and dropped her in Portland. On my upcoming trip to Florida and up the east coast, she’ll fly into Charleston for a few days to meet me. Once M goes to college, maybe we’ll go back to taking longer road trips together again.

Free & Easy versus Reservations

One of the most amazing things about riding solo is going without bookends–just heading out to anywhere without a plan. The opposite is booking a trip in advance with a set itinerary–that’s hell. Why not just fly?

Hanna understands this and has quit asking about my plan. Maybe because I always reply, “I don’t know,” or, “Whenever I want,” or, “Let’s see how it goes.” During my last trip, every time I stopped, I had a text from Wael, “Are you there yet?” What? Where? The journey is the destination. Riding free and easy down the road, by definition means there is no destination.

If you ride and are interested in reading my rant about this issue: Chris’ great ride to meet family adventures.

If you’re heading north, there are a few possible constraints.

Northern Rockies Lodge BC: outside of Whitehorse, this is the nicest place to stay on the ALCAN. If you don’t make reservations, securing a booking there will be hit or miss. If you don’t plan ahead, when you are turned away you’ve got to be prepared to ride the extra three hours to stay in a fleabag in Watson Lake.
Whitehorse YT: Whitehorse is busy during summer. Sometimes it gets totally booked out. As long as you’re super flexible and willing to pay, you’ll probably find a place on a drive-by basis. Plus, there is always the Whitehorse Visitor Centre–they are amazingly helpful there.
Homer AK: if you fish, I highly recommend fishing in Homer AK. During halibut and salmon season, it’s some of the best fishing in the world. During high season, chartering a boat on the fly will be hit or miss. If you are willing to spend a week there to fish for three or four days, you can probably manage without reservations. You’ll just have to spend the booked out days drinking with the locals at the Salty Dawg. Oh, and don’t forget that your halibut license is only good on halibut fishing days.
Brooks Falls AK: if you’ve never seen the bears eating salmon at Brooks Falls in Katmai National Park, try to squeeze this in. You have to go by plane, so you should book it at least a couple weeks in advance. Even then, your trip will be contingent on the weather. If you are spending weeks in Homer, plan the visit to Brooks Falls during the beginning of your stay there to give yourself the chance to use a rain check, if necessary.
Alaska Ferry: if you plan to take the ferry there or back and want sleeping quarters, you have to book ahead ASAP, months in advance. If you are taking a passenger on the ALCAN, I highly recommend this! Try to book a room glacierview-side not seaview-side: heading north, Bellingham WA to Whittier AK = starboard; heading south, Whittier AK to Bellingham WA = port. These ferry slots book up months in advance.

Five Star or Camping?

How about those campers who go cross country on a bicycle? I admire them, but I don’t want to be them. I like hot showers, clean sheets, and toilets. I met a pair of campers on motorcycles last time I stayed at Northern Rockies Lodge. They said they had opted for a cabin for the night because they were exhausted from their prior night’s mosquito adventure. If you’re up for it, go ahead and try to camp the ALCAN on a motorcycle. If you do it, I’ll buy you a beer to hear your story–it will definitely be worth the laughs. As for those who prefer five-star accommodations, riding the ALCAN on a Harley may not be the trip for you. Consider taking a cruise ship—it’s safer, more convenient, and the accommodations are nicer.